Boundary Peak Base to Benton, CA – 10 miles
Yesterday I was up around 730. I didn’t set an alarm and just woke up naturally as the sun was coming up. Waking up to the sun has made me much more of a morning person. I’m still usually pretty groggy and soar from the activity the day before combined with sleeping on the ground, but something about the rhythm feels good. Made the last of my oatmeal and some coffee, packed up, and started the short ride to Benton.
A couple miles into the ride I crossed the border into California. It felt great to be in the last state of the trip. I find myself counting the approximate number of days until I hit the ocean. I’m super excited about completing the coast to coast journey as I set out to do nearly 3 months ago and have been thinking about for years, but I’m apprehensive of the lingering “what then?” question.
I rolled into Benton at around 930 and stopped at the Cafe in town. I didn’t have any cell reception, so I used a pay phone near by to call Ann and Walter, the Warmshowers hosts. I can’t remember the last time I used a pay phone, if ever. Ann answered. I told her I was going to grab some breakfast and then head her way and she gave me directions to their house.
I had an omelette and bought some groceries at the convenience store then rode to Ann and Walters only about a mile outside of town. It felt amazing to take a shower since Baker, NV was the last time I had one and sliding around on the scree on Boundary Peak had gotten me pretty dirty.
After the shower they offered to let me borrow their car to head back into town to use the wifi at the library. Even though it was only a mile I accepted because biking there didn’t sound especially fun. After the library I headed back to the house. Walter had made spaghetti for dinner. It was super delicious and it was great getting to know them as we ate.
Ann and Walter were Park Rangers at Devils Postpile National Monument. Walter also spent some time in the military and Ann was also a teacher. Super cool people and I had a lot of fun hanging out and talking with them. They moved to Benton in the 70s. Walt built the house they were still living in which I found impressive. They raised a couple of daughters there who have since went to college and are now living in different parts of the country.
After dinner we sat out on the porch watching the colors and shadows change as the sunset lit up the White Mountains across the valley. Walt told me that Janie’s Ranch, the brothel across from the turnoff to Boundary Peak, was open into the 90s! I found that interesting because I had assumed it was a thing of the distant past, but I guess I forgot that prostitution is still legal in some counties in Nevada.
We swapped stories about bike touring. They’ve both been across the U.S. More than once Since 2002 by bike and I enjoyed hearing about their experiences.
I went to bed well fed after an easy day looking forward to crushing more miles over the next couple days. It feels good to be on the final stretch of the journey and to have climbed two mountains and biked across Nevada in less than a week!
